August
I guess August passed, characterised by various attempts at self improvement. Many failed attempts, but always restarted, which means they don't classify as defeat. I hope.
Bald morning
Most of August I spent alone with Babcia. It’s self negating, to be alone while spending time with someone, but with her progressing dementia she’s not much in means of meaningful conversation. Looking after her was surprisingly easy during that time, no massive hiccups and to be fair very few moments made difficult by her condition. For most of the time it was smooth sailing.
Last blue moon for 20 years
August was also the month that, for the time being, has been my best month surfing that I’ve ever had. Surfed everyday, for at least an hour at a time, maybe with very few exceptions. I started moving away from a borrowed 9’6” and towards my banged up 7’6”, resulting in a lot of difficulties at the start, but leading to the biggest days I’ve ever surfed. My surfing buddy for the month was Dish, one of the most enthusiastic people I’ve had the pleasure of being around. A lecturer from Manchester Uni, Dish came to the island on a sabbatical from work, following his wife Ari, who works for one of the many UN agencies stationed here. Dish has a rare quality to him, that I’ve observed in only a few other humans out there, and that is to try everything. Surfing?never done it before, let’s go everyday. Climbing on never before climbed cliffs? Sure, why not. Waves breaking well overhead? Sounds like a good idea. He also, at the time, shared with me an important thing, that creates a great adventure buddy. A free schedule. Dish’s time on the Island ran out in early september, and on his last day before leaving he caught an unlucky fin to the ear on one of the calmest breaks in the west. Cut through his ear from the back to the inside resulting in quite a few stitches, and a hospital visit before his flight out.
Tyson coming down the line
Noah Cambell throwing down
Most importantly for me, August was a month, in which I managed to not drink for 3 weeks, which I realised was probably the longest such streak for me ever since I could legally drink. In total, I managed to go for a full month “off it” and felt probably the best I have in a long time. My mental clarity was on such a level that I was sure, if I only concentrated hard enough, I could probably cut through a wall using the power of thought alone. After that I had a drink and promised to try again next month.
L.